2008 Woodie Awards
No Taxis for Xerxes on Ko Chang Island, Thailand
A Travel Series
Xerxes N. Marduk
Issue date: 5/2/07 Section: Column
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Jan. 21, 2005.
Packed aboard the boat to Ko Chang Island with sandal-wearing, loud-talking tourists, I experienced a moment of revulsion at how unoriginal my island adventure was beginning.
I decided I didn't want to be like tourists and join the rush for the waiting taxis, to take them to the main beach on the island, White Sand Beach. I hung back and watched as the Jeeps slowly filled up and drove off, leaving me standing there with my backpack at my side. Looking at my map I saw most of the cheap hotels were on a beach not too far away. So I set off on my own, heading west along the beach, with no clear idea of where I was going or when I was going to get there.
As I walked along the pebbly beach I felt that I achieved my goal of separating myself from the crowd. Except for the thousands of fingernail-sized crabs that scudded under rocks at my approach, I was completely alone in this tropical paradise. After 30 minutes of walking, I came across a bamboo hut in the jungle, from which emanated the smells of cooking meat. Inside, two Thai men were busy preparing some sort of meal. As I approached they looked up from what they were doing, and gesturing with my hands I tried to get across that I wanted to somehow get to White Sand Beach. They smiled at me, and pointed in the direction I had come. Not much help.
Next, I reasoned, this was an island, and historically I have had good luck hitchhiking around islands. So pushed my way up from the beach through thick vegetation up to the road and stuck out my thumb. The first person who passed was a middle- aged Thai lady on a little moped. I pointed in the direction I wanted to go and smiled. She motioned for me to hop on her motorbike behind her. With my backpack balanced precariously over the tail end of the bike, she sped off. For the next 10 minutes I clung on to whatever I could, trying not to make her loose her balance. We came to a fork in the road and a lonely taxi stand with one or two Jeeps and a few Thai men standing around drinking. I thanked her and offered to pay, but she refused.
Packed aboard the boat to Ko Chang Island with sandal-wearing, loud-talking tourists, I experienced a moment of revulsion at how unoriginal my island adventure was beginning.
I decided I didn't want to be like tourists and join the rush for the waiting taxis, to take them to the main beach on the island, White Sand Beach. I hung back and watched as the Jeeps slowly filled up and drove off, leaving me standing there with my backpack at my side. Looking at my map I saw most of the cheap hotels were on a beach not too far away. So I set off on my own, heading west along the beach, with no clear idea of where I was going or when I was going to get there.
As I walked along the pebbly beach I felt that I achieved my goal of separating myself from the crowd. Except for the thousands of fingernail-sized crabs that scudded under rocks at my approach, I was completely alone in this tropical paradise. After 30 minutes of walking, I came across a bamboo hut in the jungle, from which emanated the smells of cooking meat. Inside, two Thai men were busy preparing some sort of meal. As I approached they looked up from what they were doing, and gesturing with my hands I tried to get across that I wanted to somehow get to White Sand Beach. They smiled at me, and pointed in the direction I had come. Not much help.
Next, I reasoned, this was an island, and historically I have had good luck hitchhiking around islands. So pushed my way up from the beach through thick vegetation up to the road and stuck out my thumb. The first person who passed was a middle- aged Thai lady on a little moped. I pointed in the direction I wanted to go and smiled. She motioned for me to hop on her motorbike behind her. With my backpack balanced precariously over the tail end of the bike, she sped off. For the next 10 minutes I clung on to whatever I could, trying not to make her loose her balance. We came to a fork in the road and a lonely taxi stand with one or two Jeeps and a few Thai men standing around drinking. I thanked her and offered to pay, but she refused.
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